When to Use Retinol in Your Skin Care Routine

October 30, 2024By Experts at Rael

Retinol, a powerful derivative of vitamin A, has earned its status as a clean skin care superstar for its remarkable ability to transform the skin's appearance and health. Let's dive deeper into what retinol is, how it works at the cellular level, and why it's considered a must-have in many skin care routines.

What is Retinol and How Does it Work?

Retinol belongs to a class of compounds known as retinoids, which are all derivatives of vitamin A. While there are various types of retinoids, including prescription-strength retinoic acid and over-the-counter options like retinol and retinaldehyde, retinol is favored for its balance of effectiveness and tolerability.

Retinol's magic lies in its ability to penetrate the skin and convert into retinoic acid, the active form of vitamin A. This conversion process happens within the skin cells, where retinoic acid interacts with specific receptors. Here’s how it works at a deeper level:

Cell Communication: Retinoic acid binds to retinoid receptors in the skin cells, essentially "communicating" with them to speed up their natural turnover process. This means that older, dull skin cells are shed more rapidly, revealing fresher, newer skin underneath.
Collagen Production: Retinol stimulates the production of collagen, a protein that provides structure and elasticity to the skin. As we age, collagen production naturally declines, leading to wrinkles and sagging skin. By boosting collagen levels, retinol helps to maintain the skin’s firmness and smoothness.
Regulation of Oil Production: Retinol helps to regulate sebum (oil) production, which can be particularly beneficial for those with acne-prone or oily skin. By preventing excess oil and keeping pores clear, retinol reduces the likelihood of breakouts.
Improving Skin Texture: By promoting faster cell turnover, retinol helps to smooth out rough patches and uneven texture. This process also helps to fade post-acne marks and hyperpigmentation, leading to a more even skin tone.

3 Benefits of Using Retinol

Retinol’s efficacy is well-supported by scientific research and dermatological studies. It is one of the most researched skin care ingredients, with numerous studies highlighting the benefits of retinol for your skin:

Anti-Aging Properties: Research published in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology found that retinol significantly reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by increasing collagen production and promoting skin cell turnover (Kafi et al., 2007).
Acne Treatment: Retinol effectively reduces acne lesions and improves overall skin texture by unclogging pores and reducing inflammation (Mukherjee , 2008).
Skin Tone Improvement: Retinol has been shown to lighten hyperpigmentation and even out skin tone. Retinol significantly reduces the appearance of dark spots and improves skin clarity over a 12-week period (AAD, 2021).

When to Start Using Retinol

Retinol can be beneficial for various age groups. Starting at different ages can serve different purposes.

Age-Based Guidelines

Mid-20s: Start using retinol for prevention, addressing early signs of aging before they become prominent.
30s and Beyond: Incorporate retinol for treatment purposes, targeting existing fine lines, wrinkles, and sun damage.

Skin Condition Indicators

If you are wondering when to use retinol in routine, consider starting retinol if you notice:

Fine Lines: Early signs of aging around the eyes or mouth.
Uneven Texture: Rough or bumpy skin indicating slower skin cell turnover.
Persistent Acne: Continuous breakouts that don’t respond to other treatments.

Finding the Right Time in Your Routine

Nighttime is ideal for retinol serum application due to its sensitivity to sunlight, which can degrade the active ingredient and reduce its effectiveness. Here's a guide to incorporating retinol into your nighttime skin care routine:

Start Slow: Begin with applying retinol 1-2 times a week to allow your skin to adjust.
Low Concentrations: Start with lower concentrations of retinol to minimize the risk of skin irritation.

Cycle Sync: As your hormone levels fluctuate throughout the different phases of your menstrual cycle, your mood, energy, and skin change too. Educating yourself on what each phase may bring and how to deal with it allows you to give your skin the self-care it needs to feel nourished at each phase.

When Should You Apply Retinol?

Always apply retinol on clean, prepped skin to ensure maximum absorption. Cleanse your skin thoroughly to remove any makeup, dirt, and oil, and follow with a toner if you use one.

For those with sensitive skin, using the "sandwich method" can help mitigate irritation. This involves applying moisturizer before and after retinol to buffer its effects. For others, retinol can be applied directly after cleansing and toning, followed by a rich barrier cream for your face.

Seasonal Adjustments for Retinol Use

Retinol can make your skin more sensitive to UV rays, so during summer, it's crucial to consider how much you apply it and always follow up with a high-SPF sunscreen. In winter, the weather change may call for a skin care adjustment such as using a heavier moisturizer. Regardless of the season, daily use of a high-SPF sunscreen is essential when using retinol to protect your skin from UV damage and prevent further skin concern.

Dealing with "Retinol Uglies"

What is the retinol purge or retinol uglies? When starting retinol, you might experience initial irritation, flaking, or dry skin, often referred to as the "retinol uglies." The process of retinol accelerating the shedding of dead skin cells can bring underlying blemishes to the surface, leading to an initial increase in breakouts. This is a sign that the retinol is working to improve the skin's condition from within.

Retinol purging typically begins within the first 1-4 weeks of starting a new retinol product. Manage the irritation by using a gentle, hydrating moisturizer to soothe your skin. If you experience excessive dryness or sensitivity, take a break from retinol and allow your skin to recover.

Pairing Retinol with Other Ingredients

Some ingredients complement retinol and can enhance its effectiveness:

Hyaluronic Acid: Hydrates and plumps the skin, counteracting retinol’s drying effects.
Niacinamide: Reduces irritation and strengthens the skin barrier.

Certain ingredients should not be mixed with retinol as they can increase irritation:

AHAs/BHAs: Acids like glycolic acid and salicylic acid can cause excessive exfoliation.
Vitamin C: Both vitamin C and retinol are potent as an ingredient but can be too harsh when used together.

Retinol for Beginners at Rael

Rael's new retinol products are designed to fit seamlessly into your skin care routine, providing all the benefits of retinol while being gentle enough for sensitive skin. Our formulation includes additional hydrating and soothing ingredients to ensure your skin remains balanced and healthy. By incorporating our retinol chin masks and acne patches into your regimen, you can effectively target skin concerns such as stubborn hormonal acne and dark spots.

Incorporating retinol into your skin care routine can yield significant benefits, from preventing acne breakouts to reducing the signs of aging. By understanding when and how to use retinol, you can optimize its effectiveness and minimize potential irritation. Whether you're just starting with retinol or looking to add to your skin care set, following these guidelines will help you achieve clear, radiant skin.

Sources

Kafi, R., Kwak, H.S., Schumacher, W.E., et al. (2007). Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol). https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17515510/. Accessed on June 27, 2024.
Mukherjee S, et. al. Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: An overview of clinical efficacy and safety. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2699641/. Accessed on June 27, 2024.
American Academy of Dermatology. (2021). Retinoid or retinol? https://www.aad.org/public/everyday-care/skin-care-secrets/anti-aging/retinoid-retinol. Accessed on June 27, 2024.